Saturday, January 26, 2013

Venice, Day Two - (2)

This is a continuation at my post of January 19, 2013.   After eating our gelati - chocolate for my husband and hazelnut for me, we resumed our walk in the city. Presently we arrived at a large campo and, as you can see in the photo below, it was a warm day for October and people were wearing summer clothes.
We kept walking along the canals.  In Venice a "fondamenta" is the little alley along the waterway and foundations of buildings - the larger alleys are called "riva."
Walking along the canals felt as though we were walking inside a painting, as the scenery has not changed.  Below is a painting of a canal in 1928.
Canal in Venice, 1928 - painted by Peter Mork Monsted, Danish 1859-1941

Sometimes, along a building, there would be an open entrance, just like the entrance to the building.  But it was the entrance to a narrow alley, as can be seen on the bottom right hand side of the photo below.
 It was dark at first, but suddenly the alley was open to the sky, and it was very light. I believe these are called "sottoportego" (a passageway going under a building.)
 Some of the alleys were quite narrow.  My husband is standing in the middle of the alley in the top middle photo below. (Click on any photo to enlarge, and on collages too.)
 It was strange to be in a narrow alley, then find ourselves facing the Grand Canal.
 So we stopped and looked - and for me, it was a good time to take several pictures.
Then we went back along a canal again - never sure exactly where we were.
 We walked along so many canals that, after a while, it is quite hard to distinguish them and several times, we walked back around the same canals.
 After another long walk, we ended up again at the Grand Canal.  This time we were close to a beautiful palace.  Fortunately there was a sign on it.  We had arrived at "Ca Rezzonico" named after the wealthy Rezzonico family who moved there in 1758.  Now it is a public museum dedicated to 18th century Venice.
 Later I found out that this palazzo had been rented out in the 1880s.  The poet, Robert Browning (1812-1889) died in his son's apartment there - the painter Robert Barrett Browning.  The American painter John Singer Sargent rented a studio in this palace as well.  Then each summer between 1923 and 1927 the composer and song writer Cole Porter (1891-1964) rented the palace.  His monthly rent at the time was $4,000 per month ($51,000 in today's money.)  While my husband was looking at the Grand Canal I took several pictures of the sculptures on the wall of the palazzo.
 We entered the interior courtyard of the palazzo and rested on one of the benches on the side.
 It was dark and cool there.  I could see a fountain at the other end of the courtyard and walked up to take a closer look.
From a distance, it looked like there was a ceramic turtle in the center of the fountain.
  I looked at it for quite a while.  It was life like but it did not move at all.  Then, just as I was leaving - it moved!  I saw more turtles in the water and some fish too.
We walked away along some more canals, passing several religious carvings.
We could hear music - someone singing and playing the guitar, in English.  It had to be an amateur, as he was not very good, but we saw him again after we walked crossed a large campo.  He still did not sound any better!
We went back through the confusing maze of alleys and stopped at a canal as a powerboat was passing by.  I did not take its picture but you can see its passage in the water in the photo below.
  Nowadays there are many powerboats that create small waves against the foundations of the buildings.  After a while these small waves contribute to the deterioration of the walls and they crumble.  The gondoliers don't like the powerboats either as the constant waves have reduced the life of a gondola from the traditional 40 years to more or less 10 years.
 Below is a 19th century gondola which was exhibited in the courtyard of Ca' Rezzonico.
 I wonder if the gondoliers below are talking about the difficulty to row their gondolas amongst all the powerboats, motor taxis, etc., that crowd the canals.
As we (slowly) walked around I liked to look up at the colorful windows (and laundry.)
As the centuries went by, the shapes of the windows have changed.
The gated window below looks like it has been there for ages.
I guess I could have written a post on what I saw when I looked up at the Venice buildings.


As we went across a small bridge we noticed a sign in front of a 15th century Venetian Gothic building - "Casa di Carlo Goldoni."  Later we found the entrance - a beautiful staircase, but we did not go inside as it was closing.  It is where the author, Goldoni, was born in 1707.  Now it is a small museum dedicated to him, as well as a 30,000 manuscript archive and library and a small 18th century puppet theatre.
As we walked I could not stop and take a picture of the old door below.  Just look at the imposing lock!  I wonder how long this door has been there?
Just as for the windows, there is a good variety of doors in Venice.
Somehow we found ourselves near the Grand Canal again, close to the Rialto Bridge (which is pictured on top of this post.)  It is a very busy area and must be quite crowded during the tourist season.
We stepped up to the top of the bridge and I took pictures to show what I saw, from both sides.
We stayed on top of this bridge for a while looking at the water traffic below.  But then we left and, as we passed an outside cafe, we thought about stopping but we were so tired that we felt if we stopped, we would not be able to keep walking afterwards.
We bought a piece of pizza to eat later from our own little window looking over our canal (below) and were so pleased to reach our inn.  In just a day we had seen so much - so many images and colors were in my head.  I am happy to have taken a large amount of pictures so I can revisit all the sites now.  This was our second day in Venice... and we still had three more days to go!

40 comments:

Nadezda said...

I've read your post and remembered my visit to Venice. It was December. Thank you for sharing so many pictures, they are great!

Miss_Yves said...

Quel enchantement de (re)découvrir Venise grâce à vous, et de découvrir ses aspects moins connus!

stadtgarten said...

Absolutely beautiful!
Thank you so much for talking us for a walk through this wonderful city.
I have never been to Venice, but I really think I should go, I would definitively love it!
Merci beaucoup et bon weekend,
amicalement, Monika

DJan said...

It's so beautiful and unique, VB. I have never been but it feels like I have been looking up at those windows myself! Thank you for all the wonderful pictures. :-)

Down by the sea said...

I thought I had posted on your previous post, somehow I must have got distracted. You have captured so well the spirit of Venice in your photos. It is such a wonderful place to explore and get away from the crowds. through your post it feels as if I havemade a return journey to this wonderful city!
Sarah x

Dee said...

Dear Vagabonde, another wonderful post in which your words and photographs made me feel as if I was walking right along side you and your husband, looking up at those windows and wondering who'd walked through those doors.

Thanks for adding in these postings the interesting sidebars--in #1 the changes in Paris and in this the famous people who'd spent time living in these old, old homes.

I wonder, do you ever do slide shows and travelogues for groups close to where you live? You have so much to share and so many, many tidbits that would make an imaginary adventure truly amazing.

Peace.

rosaria williams said...

You bring such enthusiasm to each place you visit, letting us see it with new eyes, capturing the light, the special colors. Thank you for sharing this fabulous day with all of us.

Helsie said...

Thank you so much for this terrific post. I've always wanted to visit Venice and this makes me want to go even more. It sounds like it would be good to spend several days there as you have. Would you recommend your accommodation? We usually try to find an apartment and live like the locals for a few days, shopping where they do and preparing some of our own meals. I must investigate holiday apartments in Venice. Thanks again.

Ann said...

your words and photos have taken me from my modest little home in California,to the magnificent city of Venice! as I toured with you,i could feel the warmth of the air,the coolness of the alleyways,hear and smell the charm of Venice. the buildings,the canals,the people! oh, i can hear the water as it slaps against the sides of the streets and gondolas. i wonder what it would be like to live in one of those buildings?..but,with what the previous "renters " paid..i shall just have to dream!!! LOL
your photographs and your descriptions are heavenly!!
thank you so much for sharing !!!

Nadege said...

What a wonderful job you did, taking us along on your trip! Beautiful photography! I can tell that you and your husband really enjoyed your time in this wonderful city.

Retired English Teacher said...

I may never get to Venice, but I have at least been able to see so many of its beautiful places through the lens of your camera. I was amazed at the canals, the architectural designs, the colors, and all the beauty that you captured in this post. I also kept thinking how brave you were to wander about so freely. Were you afraid of getting lost? I thought of how tired you must have been, and then you said you were so tired you were afraid of sitting.

I loved this. Thanks for sharing. You do such a wonderful job in not only capturing wonderful photographs, but you also do an amazing job in organizing and presenting these photos.

Kay L. Davies said...

Fabulous photos! I couldn't believe how much the 1928 painting looked like a present-day photograph.
We will be in Venice in less than a month, and I'm getting very excited about it. Thanks for the beautiful preview.
K

OldLady Of The Hills said...

What a glorious post this is, my dear Vagabonde---I truly feel I have been there in Venice, with you...! What an extrordinary city: A True Work Of Art...The Canals and all the Stunning buildings-The Colors...WOW! I thank you for showing us this Great Great city in such detail...! One picture after another---Simply Sublime! I'm sorry I never got there, but now feel as if I have, through your wonderful WONDERFUL pictures and your perfect words that go along with the magnificent pictures. SOOOO Looking forward to more, my dear.

Pondside said...

How wonderful to have so many days in Venice! I agree that it would be possible to write an entire post just on windows, and then you could do another just on doors.
The layers and layers of life and history are so obvious in Venice. One imagines one can see the trail of a gown, the edge of a sword, the flash of a silk-clad calf from the corner of an eye.
Lovely post.

Reader Wil said...

What a wonderful post! Les photos sont si claires et belles avec pleins de couleurs. Je n'ai jamais été en Venise, mais maintenant je désirerais voir Venise aussi! Bonne journée!

Food, Fun and Life in the Charente said...

I have really enjoyed your posts on Venice and I feel as if I have taken the tour with you. I hope one day I will get to see Venice for myself, but meanwhile I have appreciated the visit with you. Thanks so much Diane

Fennie said...

By the serendipitious hand of chance I went this week to see a play based on one Goldini wrote - 'One Man, Two Guv'nors.' The programme told me about Goldini and how he was thrown out of school for writing skits about the teachers. His play was 'One Servant, Two Masters.' Small world.
Thanks for my own personal tour of Venice. I look forward to the rest of your holiday.

Fripouille said...

Oh boy, do I just adore these photos!! I lingered over every single one of them. And they are particularly welcome as I type this. I've been very busy lately, it's been cold and rainy, I'm tired as tired can be, and it's dark and rainy outside.

Or should I say it was, until I saw these photos. BLAM! So much lovely light, beautiful colours, peaceful and tasteful architecture!

I don't know much about taking photos but maybe it's the combination of the exposure, contrast, other light settings and colour intensity which make them seem as if I'm there.

Yeah, that's it. It's so easy to imagine being there. And you know what? I wish I was. Thanks again.
Frip

Vicki Lane said...

I've been to Venice twice and now I'm falling in love with this magnificent city all over again! Thank you for this wonderful tour!

Al said...

What an amazing place and a great series of photos.

David said...

Vagabonde, Another great series of vacation/trip photos! I was surprised that there was so much life in canals around Venice...

Our son won't let us call trips like this a "vacation" anymore... He tells us that since we're retired, our overnight trips are just that...TRIPS.

Take Care, Big Daddy Dave

Richard Moisan said...

Photos de tableaux, d'amour. Images magiques... Qui n'est jamais allé à Venise ne peut comprendre.
Merci pour ces belles photos!

Kay said...

OH wow! I'm so loving these photos. We went to Florence, but skipped Venice and I'm really, really regretting it now. Ah well, I'm so glad I get to see your photos.

Abe Lincoln said...

I have never been there but your photos makes it more comfortable than it looks like it would be if you are not used to a sultry or climate soaked with moisture. I don't think I would want to live there, not even in a palace. I grew up next to a field of corn and still live in a small farming community. I guess I will die here too. LOL I did, however, like Japan and could live there in the traditional way. The urban way is much like any big city in the States - not for me.

Ginnie said...

Absolutely wonderful images, Vagabonde. I am so ready to go back!

Perpetua said...

Another wonderful Venice post, Vagabonde. Your photos are superb and the story you tell with them takes us with you along the canals and down the narrow alleys. I've said before that you have an artist;'s eye in your photos, but you also have a marvellous eye for detail and for its presentation. I so enjoyed this.

.•♫•. Nancy .•♫•. said...

✿ ❊ ✿ ❊ ✿ ❊ ✿
Merci Chère Vagabonde pour cette magnifique promenade à Venise !!!
C'est magique et si beau !!!
Cette ville a un charme fou !!!

Encore merci pour ce formidable partage !!!!
GROS BISOUS
et bon mardi !!!
✿ ❊ ✿ ❊ ✿ ❊ ✿

Nadezda said...

I read about your list of posts on Frico's blog. You've written you have in plan 'How we were waiting for bus in Saint Petersburg to visit Hermitage'. I'm interested in reading it, because it's about my city S. Petersburg!

claude said...

Je suis encore en retard chez toi.
Je comment au sujet du n° 1
Tout d'abord, c'est bien tu as agrandi tes photos.
J'aime bien ton comparaison entre Venise et le vieux Paris avec la Bièvre. Il y a une rue de Bièvre à Paris, là où habitait un certain Président de la République.
Venise est vraiment à voir.

claude said...

Merci pour cette belle et complète visite. Le Pont des Soupirs est vraiment très beau.
Venise est vraiment typique.

¨¨*:•♥•: FRANCE*¨¨*:•♥ said...

BONJOUR et bien je ne connais pas cet endroit et je veux bien y passer aussi
Ainsi j'aurai les pieds dans l'eau rire
ELLES sont très belles tes photos et j'aime bien ces maisons au bord de l'eau
La vie doit être si différente de la notre
UN Jour je pense y passer et je ferai comme toi des photos et j'en profiterai aussi
UN superbe voyage
Je te laisse je ne suis pas trop en forme en ce moment
BISOU

The Solitary Walker said...

Fabulous, Vagabonde! Venice is a photographer's dream, isn't it? Loved the alleys and the doors and the turtle. Your posts are bringing back many memories of my two visits to Venice, one in summer and one in winter. Out of season it's so good.

Peter Olson said...

Further images and impressions from Venice! Wonderful! Happy to see that you "really" visited the place, not just a quick walk between St.Marc and Rialto! :-)

Vagabonde said...

Thank you all for stopping by and taking the time to leave a comment. If you asked a question I’ll go to your blog to reply. Thanks again – I enjoy reading your thoughts on my post.

Elaine said...

What a delightful tour of Venice! It really is very unique and beautiful and your photos are wonderful.

Jeanie said...

I was fascinated by your first post, all the more by this one. It's stunning -- so many photo ops with those colorful houses, beautiful boats, and all that water. With every image, I wanted more and more to experience this beautiful spot first hand. Thanks!

Niall & Antoinette said...

Thanks for a great tour round Venice. I've visited it several times and it remians one of my all time favourite places :-) Your lovely photos took me straight back!

Margaret said...

I am speechless. I want more... and yet, my senses are overloaded. I so thank you for sharing this.

Emm in London said...

Oh wow, Venice just looks absolutely incredible and your photos are amazing! Thank you so much for taking us on this tour with you!! I'm hopefully going to Venice in September (we're definitely going to Milan for the Grand Prix but haven't figured the rest out yet). I hope intake as beautiful photos as you!

By the way, I had to look twice at that painting. It looks so real.

rochambeau said...

Hello dear Vagabond and it is a pleasure to find you here and to embrace your memories through your words and photographs. Never have I been to Venice, yet there is something about it that lives in me and find myself mesmerized with all that I can read or see. So, thank you for your post!
After reading your ABOUT page, you must know that our cat rules too! Also, I grew up in San Francisco playing a game called Rochambeau. That and my affection for the French culture is where the name for my blog was born. I have traveled and stayed in Paris and other parts of France. About New Orleans, my parents lived there in the 1980's and the times I experienced there changed my life in a good way! My husband and I go much because we love the European feel.
Blogland is Magical! When I saw your blogroll, I noted that you linked Dutchbaby. Do you know she also grew up in San Francisco? Perhaps all three of us where there together smiling at one another.
She and I have met (at the Monteleone) and will thankfully have the opportunity to see one another next month in Ca.
Glad you stopped by today!
Your comment brightened my day.
Constance