Tuesday, September 1, 2015

An afternoon in San Francisco, by the Bay

As I mentioned in my previous post "Books, food and airplanes in Alameda" my eldest daughter who was in the area for business meetings visited my two grandsons - her nephews - and me during the week-end we were on Alameda Island.  On Friday evening we went to a Lithuanian restaurant in Alameda.  On Saturday my daughter and her fiance decided to take my two grandsons to the Exploratorium Museum near Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco.  The museum site indicates that "The Exploratorium is a museum of science, art, and human perception ... We create tools and experiences that help you to become an active explorer: hundreds of explore-for-yourself exhibits; a website with over 50,000 pages of content ... etc."  Their stated mission is to change the way the world learns.  The Exploratorium is the brainchild of Frank Oppenheimer (1912-1985,) an experimental physicist and university professor.  It is a huge museum.  Wikipedia has detailed information on this museum - click here to access it.   (Two photos of Exploratorium below courtesy Bruce Damonte.)

The Exploratorium is located at Pier 15 on the Embarcadero, along the San Francisco Bay (see map above.)  The distance from our lodging in Alameda to Pier 15 in San Francisco is only 14.4 miles (23 km.)  We did not think it would be a long trip.  Wrong!  We left around 11:20 am and arrived at the Embarcadero at 1:30 pm!  It took over two hours ... The reason being that vehicles have to pay a toll to cross over the Oakland-Bay Bridge to go into San Francisco.  During the week-ends the lines to get to the toll booths are very crowded.  Once on the bridge, it was bumper to bumper traffic all the way.  (Click on collage to enlarge.)

I did not remember the Oakland-Bay Bridge being that crowded when we drove on it back when I lived in San Francisco in the 1960s.  My husband's sister and her family lived in Oakland for a while.  Before we were married we would drive across the bridge to visit them.  My husband, a boy-friend then, had a 1955 MG TF-1500 green convertible and it was fun crossing the bridge with the top down - it was quite windy.  We wore WWI aviator leather helmets and I also tied a long white silk scarf around my neck - I wish I had taken pictures then.  Below is an MG TF-1500.

The construction of the Bay Bridge started in 1933.  The bridge opened in November 1936 (6 months before the Golden Gate Bridge.)  It was the longest bridge at the time.  The final cost came to approximately $77 million.  San Francisco celebrated for five days when the bridge opened with more than one million people taking part in parades, Navy air show, air parades, football games, etc.  Automobile traffic used the upper deck and the lower deck carried trucks and trains until this deck was converted in 1958.  The bridge was closed for a month in 1989 after an earthquake caused a section of the upper deck to crash into the lower deck.  Below are period photos of the Oakland-Bay Bridge, courtesy San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library.  In 2002 the eastern section of the bridge was rebuilt as a self-anchored suspension bridge.  It opened in September 2013.  The cost for this reconstruction was about $6.5 billion.

Below are some vintage postcards of the Oakland-Bay Bridge.

I opted out of visiting the museum and asked to be dropped off on the Embarcadero near Fisherman's Wharf.  I knew it is a very touristy sight but the view of the Bay is beautiful from there.  I also longed to eat some good San Francisco sourdough bread and knew the Boudin Bakery and Restaurant was near Pier 41.  San Francisco sourdough bread is very popular.  For many years Parisian Bakery in the Bay area, established in 1856, sold their fresh sourdough bread at the airport as well.  Many travelers bought bread to take home.  Unfortunately Parisian Bakery was sold to Interstate Brands Corporation of Kansas City.  They changed the recipe and accelerated the way the bread was made for added profit.  But the bread did not taste the same.  The corporation went bankrupt and shut down Parisian Bakery in 2005.

Fortunately the Boudin Bakery is still making their wonderful crusty bread with the chewy and sour taste inside.  In 1849, Isidore Boudin, son of French master bakers, had emigrated from Burgundy in France to San Francisco and established a bakery to serve the Gold Rush population.  The bread was delivered by horse-drawn wagons.  Isidore established his bakery in North Beach and baked bread the way he had done in France - a fermented technique.  He captured natural yeast found in the air for his "mother dough" (the leavening base.)  But, in San Francisco, the air was different because of the fog and the sea.  Isidore's wild yeast made his bread into a "sourdough" bread.  The Boudin Bakery declares that they continue to use the original 19th century sourdough starter till now.  There are several sourdough bakeries in the Bay area and all together they bake more than 3.5 million loaves of sourdough bread every week - bought by customers and delivered to local restaurants.  Photos below courtesy Boudin Bakery.

The Boudin Bakery near Fisherman's Wharf is a two-story building with a 30-foot observation window where one can see the baking process, from the original dough to finished loaves of bread.  On the ground floor is Baker's Hall - a market with an assortment of breads and baked goods as well as regional gourmet food and gifts.  There is also an espresso bar.  Upstairs is a full-service restaurant and a Bistro bar.

As I went to a small table in the Bistro, I passed by a wall full of vintage postcards of San Francisco - I took a quick photo of the wall but did not have time to stop longer.  There is also a bakery museum upstairs, but I did not take the tour.

I ordered the "Ceviche Trio,"  an appetizer, which is a sample of Alaskan Halibut, Gulf Shrimp and Calamari Ceviche with thin-cut fries and sourdough bread and butter - plus a cold local India Pale Ale beer.  The Ceviche was well presented and interesting.  The bread was delicious.

Then I walked back towards Fisherman's Wharf by Pier 39.  It was a lovely sunny day, warm and windy.  Many people were about.  Some were watching men playing and singing.

I remember Fisherman's Wharf from decades ago.  It was mostly popular for the seafood restaurants there.  I liked to go close by to the Buena Vista Cafe to drink one of their famous Irish coffees.  They claim to have invented it.  They also declare serving up to 2000 Irish coffees per day.

Nowadays there are more tourists, more fast food places and souvenir shops.  But now, also, the sidewalks are larger, benches are plentiful and the area is decorated with many lovely flowers as well - some professionally planted and some, like this small yellow flower below, just trying to find a spot to grow.

I spent most of my time people watching, or strolling along the railing near the water to take a look at the Bay, or the boats, or the seals.

I liked to stop and read the information panels,

then go back and watch the activity on the Bay.

I came by a gate standing above weathered wood and rails.  It looked like the gate shown on the top of the information panel above.  The area was empty of people.  As I walked around it, I could see some shiny items under the railing.  As I approached I realized they were the infamous "love locks" that vandalize public property now everywhere.  I am pleased to report that the City of Paris, in early June this year, removed all the love locks from the Pont des Arts - 45 tons of locks (although the 700,000 or more love lock keys are still rusting at the bottom of the Seine River.)  Now they will start removing the love locks from other Paris bridges.  See my post on Paris Love Locks here.

As I was watching a small boat full of people going on a bay trip, a large cruise ship slowly passed in front of me.  It was the Golden Princess on its voyage to Alaska.

Now it was time to take a last look at the Bay and Alcatraz Island in the distance before meeting my daughter, her fiance and the grandsons.

After another look at Coit Tower I entered the car.  We drove by all the new tall buildings in the area and re-entered the Oakland-Bay Bridge - no toll in that direction.  Traffic going the other direction though, towards San Francisco, was still bumper to bumper.  The trip back to Alameda Island was much faster.

The grandsons loved their afternoon at the Exploratorium museum - they said they could have stayed there much longer as there were so many fun interactive computer displays to play with - but it closed at 5:00 pm.  I, also, enjoyed my lunch and had a very pleasant afternoon by the San Francisco Bay.  I played with three of my photos - and could not decide which one to show.  Which one do you prefer?  (Click to enlarge.)




28 comments:

Elephant's Child said...

I loved wandering with you. Thank you.
Mmmm sourdough. My favourite bread.
I think I like the simplicity of your first photo best - but they are all good.

Denise Covey said...

Hi Vagabonde. Another wonderful trip with you. Whoa, Oakland-Bay Bridge must be a nightmare. Glad you got your sourdough bread. I always buy it when I can. Lovely photos and vintage photos. Awesome post. :-)

Valerie-Jael said...

Wonderful post, I learned a lot! Hugs, Valerie

bayou said...

Oh, I definitely love the last photo best :-). Hello Vagabonde, what a jolly post - now I know for a fact, that next year must be the year to visit San Francisco! Ever since you posted all these nice memories of when you lived there- just yesterday wasn't it?-I long to see it for myself. Beautiful sights, I wonder if it is your daughter C, who came with her fiancé to see you and the nephews? Great to see that the old French Bakery continues in its traditions and serves such delicious bread. Thank you for your explanation for that 'demi-ensuite';-).

David said...

Vagabonde, FYI, I did that survey with NW University. As for San Francisco, the traffic in the area is crazy. Still, San Francisco is one of the few cities in the USA that really is different...with its own personality. Love the area by the piers, Chinatown, the cable cars, sourdough bread by Boudin Bakery...and a good sandwich made with it. That bread can't be duplicated! Loved the photo of the MG. My grandmother had one when I was a teenager. My brother and I rode in it once but she drove so fast in it that we refused to ever ride with her again! Take Care, Big Daddy Dave

DJan said...

When I would travel through the SF Airport, I always got the sourdough bread. How sad to realize it's gone now. I haven't actually been to the city in decades, so it's interesting to see how much it's changed. I never lived there but in Sacramento, so I would go there for fun with a friend. I like the lower picture, once I enlarged it to see it closely. They are all three fun! It's so lovely to see your adventure in pictures, along with (as usual) lots of information and vintage photos. :-)

Linda P said...

I'm enjoying you blog and learning a lot about places you visit and a lifestyle different from mine.

Nadezda said...

Vagabonde, it was a treat to virtually stroll with you along the bay, looking at the sea and activities. I'd like to visit the Bakery museum as well. St. Francisco is a place I'd go and see.

Starting Over, Accepting Changes - Maybe said...

San Francisco, my most favorite city that I have ever visited. It is truly an international city and there is never enough time to visit it all. In another life, I would have lived there. 1966 called me there, but I got married instead.

Sam Hoffer / My Carolina Kitchen said...

I've never been to California and have always wanted to go. Now I've been through your camera's eyes. Thank you so much. I would have gone crazy in the bakery with all of that gorgeous bread. Aren't MG's fun? My husband and his brothers had them as kids. I wish I had a picture of you on the bridge in that car with your scarf blowing in the breeze. You must have looked like a movie star.
Sam

OldLady Of The Hills said...

Another wonderful post, my dear.....I could almost smell that fabulous Sour Dough Bread.....My very favorite! Great pictures, as always and so filled with interesting info about all the places you went in SF. I think traffic everywhere is horrific now.....I hate to think of San Francisco so very congested, especially getting in and out of the city. Progress....HA!

Pat said...

Yes I would have loved to wander round the Bay with you. Alastair and I spent three days there on our round the world trip.
I like the bottom right photo best.
I really must try sour dough and soda bread one of these days.
What a super MG and exactly the right colour.
Beware of long silk scarves though. Remember Isadora.
Good news about the vandalism of Parisian bridges. On my cruises I see it everywhere. Awful!

Carol Crump Bryner said...

I loved reading this, Vagabonde. It brought back so many memories of the years I lived in the Bay Area and in San Francisco. I loved the bread bowls of clam chowder I used to get at the Boudin Bakery. But my husband feels that the sourdough bread in the bay area has changed and not for the better. The thing I don't remember from the 60's is all that traffic. That would be discouraging.
I like the photo with the gull and what I think is Alcatraz in the background. Glad your grandchildren could enjoy the Exploratorium. What a great place. Thanks for this sunny and cheerful post, Vagabonde!

Mae Travels said...

I love your post. My favorite sourdough bread when we lived there was Larraburu. The bakery also went out of business years ago. I didn't know that Parisian had also ceased to exist. I'm glad you know of a good artisan maker of the old fashioned sourdough!

I've never been to the current location of the Exploratorium. I knew it had moved from the Palace of Fine Arts but did not know where it ended up. So your post was very informative for me.

EG CameraGirl said...

I LOVE the v MG TF-1500! I would very much like to visit the San Francisco area. There's so much to see and do!

Marie-Anne said...

I visited San Francisco in 1984 (I just realized it is 31 years ago!!!!!!!!!!!) and I liked it so much!!!!! I remember I also enjoyed a very pleasant day at Fisherman's Wharf on the Bay and was impressed by the Bay Bridge when I visited some friends in Oakland, as well as the Golden Gate Bridge on my way to Sausalito (if I remember the name well). I will never forget my stay at The Fairmont hotel and eating dinner ‘under the clouds’ on top one of the tallest buildings !!! Sorry, I don't remember the Boudin Bakery!
Thanks for bringing back these fond memories, dear Vagabonde!!!
I hope you had a nice summer with your family, and wish you a happy autumn!

Linda said...

I absolutely love this post! I love all the vintage postcards and photos, and your photos are beautiful!

stardust said...

Hello Vagabonde! This must be the trip you wrote in your comment on my post about yacht-harbor and sailing that you took the ferry from Alameda Island to San Francisco. Now I understand how the view was magnificent. I’m attached to the beauty of suspension bridge, and the San Francisco Bay Bridge reminded me of Akashi-Strait Bridge connecting Kobe and Awaji Island which has the longest span in the world. Nice to know you and your grandchildren had a lot of fun to satisfy each one's interests. If I were there in person, I’d spend most of time strolling around the bay like you. I prefer the one on the left side.

Yoko

DeniseinVA said...

Great post on San Francisco. I loved looking at the photos and postcards.

Down by the sea said...

Everything looks on such a bigger scale than we are used to over here! It looks so lovely down by Fisherman's Wharf. I'm glad that there were still familiar businesses and views for you to enjoy. Sarah x

Al said...

A great selection of shots - that's my favorite city to visit. And no, I've never ridden in a balloon, although I'd love to.

claude said...

Comme tu as de la chance de faire ces beaux voayges !
Je repasse plus tard.
Bises

Cergie said...

Bonjour Vagabonde, tu me ravives le désir de retourner à San Francisco. Nous y étions à l'occasion du mariage d'un petit cousin de mon mari (comme toi sa cousine s'est mariée à un américain, son prof exactement et a fait sa vie en Californie) et nous avons arpenté SF pendant 3 jours à pied et transports en commun, du Golden Gate Park au Bay Bridge. Beaucoup de souvenirs, les petits passages jardiniers, le Moma's, le sentier côtier que l'on retrouve dans les Chroniques de San Francisco d'Armistead Baupin...

Susan Flett Swiderski said...

What a thoroughly delightful post! I would love to visit San Francisco, but I don't think I want to get stuck in all that traffic on the bridge. It even sounds worse than Atlanta traffic.

As much as I love museums, I think I would have rather accompanied you onto the pier for some good fresh seafood and an Irish coffee. (When my husband and I visited New Orleans, I think I drank my weight in Irish coffees, and exceeded it in seafood!)

it was so nice to meet you. Thank you for stopping by my blog and leaving a comment. It's my pleasure to return the favor. Count me in as your newest groupie. (If you have a gadget here to follow you, that is.)

Pixel Peeper said...

Oh...I love sourdough bread. I could see myself spending a lot of time at Boudin Bakery. It looks like such a fun place.

Shammickite said...

San Francisco is a city I'd love to visit one day, It looks so inviting and vibrant. So many things to do and places to explore. You are very fortunate to be able to spend so much time there.

Jeanie said...

Much of this reminds me of my long-ago trips to SF. We had a glorious PBS reception at the Exploratorium and I have many fond memories of kicking around Fisherman's Wharf (and a fascinating visit to Alcatraz). But I never had that wonderful Boudin bread! I had some sourdough, but not that one! Loved your trademark vintage photos!

sandy said...

great post - you covered a lot of things that I love about San Francisco - I use to take the grandkids to the Exploratorium Museum and of course pier 39 and ...I so miss going there - (grandkids moved to Washington)... I also loved loved your post above - the history and all you wrote about the area you grew up - the little village (which is so pretty) and Halifax and the dahlias. Loved it all. Photos of the flowers were so pretty.

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